Crab Cakes and more in ‘Charm City’ (Baltimore, MD)
An often overlooked city, Baltimore, less than an hour north of Washington, D.C. is a gem for historical sights and as a bonus has a fantastic food scene that goes far beyond it’s world-famous crab cakes. Home and hunting ground for the Susquehannock Native Americans for centuries, the Port and later town of Baltimore were established in the early 1700s.
During the War of 1812, the Battle of Baltimore was a key moment when the British failed to take Fort McHenry just south of the city centre. Francis Scott Key observed the British bombardment of the Fort in 1814 and inspired by the American flag still flying over the fort when dawn broke, wrote the Star Spangled Banner, which eventually became the US national anthem in 1931.
Following the War, Baltimore became a major transportation hub and the city’s inner harbour was the second leading port of entry for immigrants to the US after New York. In the middle of the 1800s, Baltimore was also the second most populous city in the country (after NYC) with the city becoming a hub for manufacturing and heavy industry. As industry declined in the middle of the 20th century, so did the city’s population, which reached its peak of 1 million in the 1950s.
Abandoned warehouses dotted the city’s Inner Harbor in the 1970s. In a bid to improve the city’s reputation, in 1975, Baltimore adopted the nickname ‘Charm City.’ Between 1976 and 1981, the Inner Harbor was redeveloped with numerous attractions including the Maryland Science Center, World Trade Center, Convention Center, Harborplace restaurant complex, the National Aquarium and the Baltimore Museum of Industry.
Walking the streets, you’ll discover the rich history of the city. Baltimore is home to some of the earliest National Historic Districts in the country. Baltimore has more public statues and monuments per capita than other city in the U.S. While the city has a reputation for a high crime rate, the areas visited on this tour are considered safe for tourists.
Baltimore is located on the traditional territory of the Piscataway and Susquehannock peoples.
Tour map
Starting Point
We’ll start our tour in the Mount Vernon neighbourhood, just north of downtown at Baltimore’s version of the Washington Monument.
Washington Monument
Mount Vernon Place & Washington Place
10am to 5pm Wednesday to Sunday
Predating the more famous D.C. monument by about 20 years, the Washington Monument here in the Mount Vernon neighbourhood of Baltimore is the first major monument built to honour the first U.S. President. The monument is open to the public and you can buy tickets to climb to the top.
Head east on Mount Vernon Place
George Peabody Library
17 E Mt Vernon Place
10am-5pm Monday to Wednesday, 11am-5pm Sunday
Across the street from the monument, you’ll find Peabody library, now a part of the Johns Hopkins University. Peabody’s goal was to have a library “for for use of all persons who desire to consult it.” As a result, the public is welcome to view the beautiful 19th-century interior the library, which claims a 300,000 volume collection.
Stunning interior of the Peabody Library (March 2022)Turn left on Washington Place which becomes Charles St.
Turn right on Franklin/Mulberry Expressway
Turn right on Cathedral St.
Basilica of the Assumption (The Baltimore Basilica)
409 Cathedral St.
7am to 7pm (7:30am to 6:30pm on Saturday)
Free entry
When it opened in the early 1800s, the Baltimore Basilica was the first Roman Catholic basilica built in the United States. It was also among the first major religious buildings built in the country after the Constitution was adopted, and became a symbol of the newfound religious freedom in the United States.
The Basilica is one of the world’s finest examples of 19th century architecture and was heavily inspired by the US Capitol. For example, the skylights found in the US Capitol inspired the architecture of the Cathedral’s dome. Since it opened in 1821 it has been the sight of numerous historical events, from Papal visits to hosting the largest meeting of Catholic bishops outside of Rome since the 1500s. Following a period of neglect, in 2001, the basilica was restored to its former glory.
The impressive interior of the Baltimore Basilica, with a dome reminicent of the U.S. Capitol Building (March 2022)Turn right on Franklin/Mulberry Expressway
Turn left on N Paca St.
Lexington Market
400 W Lexington St.
8am to 5pm Monday-Saturday, Closed Sunday
It’s finally time for our first food stop - but don’t worry, the wait will have been worth it. We’ve made it to the Lexington Market one of the longest-running in the world. Originally opened in 1782, the market remains a Baltimore icon to this day. Locals believe it shows the true personality of the city compared to the more tourist-oriented Inner Harbor (which we will visit later on).
Faidley’s Seafood - in Lexington Market
One of the most famous vendors in the market and one of the most iconic food destinations in the country is Faidley Seafood. Founded in 1886, it still sits at its original location in the Market and is still owned by the descendants of John Faidley - its founder. Faidley’s specialty is its Jumbo Lump Crabcake, arguably one of the best you’ll find anywhere (it’s pricey but worth it!).
You’ll also find another Baltimore curiosity on the menu - lake trout. Interestingly, lake trout is not from a lake and does not contain trout. The theory is that fish arriving late in the season were referred to as ‘late’, however, with the local population not speaking British English, it got changed to ‘lake.’ The fish is actually whiting, not trout. Renaming fish is one way fisherman used to make fish sound more appealing to customers.
“They’re plump, sweet beauties with large pieces of crab meat and subtle seasoning. Every subsequent crab cake will be measured against hers.”
Faidley Jump Lump Crab cake with National Bohemian (‘Natty Bo’) beer - one of the iconic food destinations in the United States (March 2022)
Berger's Cookies - in Lexington Market
If the black and white cookie is the cookie of New York City, the Berger cookie is the cookie of Baltimore. The cookie was introduced to the city way back in 1835 when Henry Berger arrived in the U.S. from Germany. While the Bergers eventually sold their business, the cookie is still made using the family recipe with a soft, cake like cookie covered with hand-dipped fudge icing.
Head south on N Paca St.
Turn right on Fayette St.
Westminster Hall and Burying Ground (Edgar Allan Poe grave)
515 W Fayette St.
8am to 4:30pm
By Metro
Return to Lexington Market and take the metro two stops from Lexington Market to Shot Tower ($1.90)
Head east on E Baltimore St.
Turn right on Lloyd St. (You will pass two historic synagogues and the Jewish Museum of Maryland.
Turn right on Lombard St.
Walking
Walk east on Fayette St. for about 1 mile/1.6km
Turn right on Jones Falls Trail/N President St.
Turn left on Lombard St.
From here, you’ll see the Pheonix Shot Tower. When it was completed in 1828, it was the tallest structure in the United States standing 234 feet tall, and produced shot balls used for projectiles in shotguns. It was one of four shot towers in Baltimore but the only one still surviving. The NBA team that played in Baltimore, and later in Washington were known as the Bullets in reference to this tower.
Jewish Baltimore and Corned Beef Row
On Lloyd Street, you’ll see remnants of the historically rich Jewish history of the neighbourhood. The B’nai Israel synagogue dates back to the first decade after the Civil War, beginning in 1873, and at it’s current location since 1895. Even with dozens of other synagogues leaving the area as descendants of peddlers and shop owners moved to the suburbs following World War II, B’nai Israel is the one and only remaining in the downtown/East Baltimore area. While literally falling apart in the 1970s (with the sanctuary roof open to the elements, and the few attendees meeting in the basement), the synagogue is now a new centre for Jewish live in downtown Baltimore with many visitors and students.
Altman’s Deli
1019 E Lombard St.
8am-5:30pm (to 4pm on Sunday)
In the early 20th century, the stretch of Lombard Street near Lloyd St. was the centre of Jewish Baltimore. Today, only a few landmarks remain but one is Attman’s Deli which was founded in 1915. The deli is now operated by it’s original owner’s grandson and is the oldest Jewish deli in the country still operated by the original family. Grab a corned beef sandwich and sit in the ‘kibbitz’ (gossip) room to enjoy with the locals.
Altman’s has been serving corned beef on Baltimore’s corned beef row for more than 100 years (March 2022)Continue along Lombard St.
Turn left on High Street
Turn right on Stiles St.
Vaccaro’s Italian Pastry Shop
222 Albemarle St.
9am-7pm (to 8pm on Friday and Saturday)
Baltimore’s Little Italy was originally home to Irish, German and Jewish neighbourhoods but became almost exclusively Italian-American by the start of the 20th century. For a taste of the area, there' are few places better than Vaccaros. Gioacchino Vaccaro established this spot back in 1956 when he brought recipes from his native Sicily to Baltimore. The family tradition continues by his son Nick.
Inner Harbor and Federal Hill
Continue on Stiles St.
Turn right on President St.
Turn left on Pratt St.
Follow the harbor by continuing along Light St.
The Inner Harbor is the city’s landmark tourist attraction, seen as a model for post-industrial waterfront redevelopment. In the area surrounding the harbour you’ll find the National Aquarium, Science Center, historic U.S. ships, and more.
Continue along Light St.
Turn left on Montgomery St.
Climb the stairs to the park on the hill.
Federal Hill Park was acquired by the city of Baltimore in 1880 and was used as a fort during the Civil War. It then became a city park and provides some of the best views of the city. The surrounding neighbourhood - also named Federal Hill - is included in the National Register of Historic Places. Historically, a working class area, Federal Hill struggled throughout the 20th century as industrial jobs disappeared. The investment in the nearby Inner Harbor led to reinvestment in the area and throughout the past few decades there has been an influx of new businesses.
This hill overlooking the city is a great place to wrap-up the tour but there’s tons more to do in Charm City (see below) including the popular and charming neighbourhood of Fells Point, a particularly great spot for an evening stroll among the many pubs, restaurants, shops, markets, and more.
If you want to get back to the starting point, you can take the free circulator bus from the corner of Key Highway and Light Street (5 minute walk from Federal Hill Park) right to the Washington Monument.
View of the city from Federal Hill Park (March 2022)Post-trip options
Here are a few ideas of museums, historic sites, and more food places to check out in the city.
Fells Point
Thames and Broadway
Historic waterfront district with cobblestone streets known for its pubs, taverns, unique shots, and market.
Fort McHenry
2400 E Fort Ave.
9am to 5pm
National historic site, most famous for its role in the War of 1812, where the ‘Star-Spangled Banner’ was written.
National Aquarium
501 E Pratt St. (Inner Harbor)
10am-4pm Monday-Wednesday, 10am-8pm Thursday. 9am-5pm Saturday-Sunday
Noted as one of the best aquariums in the country, and the #1 attraction in the state of Maryland.
Maryland Science Center
601 Light Ave. (Inner Harbor)
10am-4pm Wednesday to Friday, 10am-5pm Saturday-Sunday
Hands-on exhibits, a planetarium, IMAX and more, make this a top pick for kids.
Historic Ships in Baltimore - USS Constellation
301 E Pratt St. (Inner Harbor)
10am-5pm Thursday-Monday
Explore an historic ship that served with the African Slave Trade Patrol in the mid- 1800s, assigned to catch slave traders.
American Visionary Art Museum
800 Key Highway
10am-5pm Wednesday to Sunday
Museum specializing in outsider or ‘self-taught’ art..
Walters Art Museum
600 North Charles St.
10am-5pm Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 1-8pm Thursday
Free museum located near the tour start point contains a wide variety of art amassed by major American art and sculpture collectors father-and-son William and Henry Walters.
Baltimore Museum of Art
10 Art Museum Dr.
10am-5pm Wednesday to Sunday (until 9m on Thursday)
Another free art museum with a variety of works from around the world. The museum has 95,000 works of art, and the world’s largest collection of works by Henri Matisse.
Jewish Museum of Maryland
15 Lloyd St.
12-4pm Monday-Wednesday, 10am-4pm Sunday (closed on Jewish holidays)
Just off of ‘corned beef row,’ this museum in what was once the Jewish centre of Baltimore, explores Jewish history and culture in Maryland, including guided tours of the historic synagogue next door.
Babe Ruth Birthplace and Museum
216 Emory St.
10am-4pm Wednesday to Sunday
Discover the birthplace of baseball icon and Baltimore native George Herman “Babe” Ruth
Edgar Allan Poe House and Museum
203 N Amity St.
11am-4pm Thursday to Sunday
If literature is more of your thing than baseball, check out the former home of famed poet Edgar Allan Poe.
Motzi Bread
2801 Guilford Avenue
12pm-6pm Thursday and Friday, 8am-2pm Saturday
Pick up some delicious bread from this community bakery featuring local grown grains.
Chaps Pit Beef
5801 Pulaski Highway
10:30am-9pm
If you’re not full from the tour, check out pit beef. Pit beef is another Baltimore-specific dish - sliced beef served on a kaiser bun. The dish originated on the east side of Baltimore (where Chaps is located) in the 1970s.
Route Information
Starting Point:
1. Washington Monument (Mount Vernon Place & Washington Place).
Head east on Mount Vernon Place
2. George Peabody Library (17 E Mt Vernon Place)
Turn left on Washington Place which becomes Charles St.
Turn right on Franklin/Mulberry Expressway
Turn right on Cathedral St.
3. Baltimore Basilica (409 Cathedral St.)
Turn right on Franklin/Mulberry Expressway
Turn left on N Paca St.
4. Food Stop: Faidley’s Seafood - Lexington Market (400 W Lexington St.)
5. Food Stop: Berger’s Bakery - Lexington Market (400 W Lexington St.)
Head south on N Paca St.
Turn right on Fayette St.
6. Westminster Hall and Burying Ground-Edgar Allan Poe grave (515 W Fayette St.)
By Metro:
Return to Lexington Market and take the metro two stops from Lexington Market to Shot Tower ($1.90)
Head east on E Baltimore St.
Turn right on Lloyd St. (You will pass two historic synagogues and the Jewish Museum of Maryland.
Turn right on Lombard St.
Walking:
Walk east on Fayette St. for about 1 mile/1.6km
Turn right on Jones Falls Trail/N President St.
Turn left on Lombard St.
7. Food Stop: Altman’s Deli (1019 E Lombard St.)
Continue along Lombard St.
Turn left on High Street
Turn right on Stiles St.
8. Food Stop: Vaccaro’s Italian Pastry Shop (222 Albemarle St.)
Continue on Stiles St.
Turn right on President St.
Turn left on Pratt St.
Follow the harbor by continuing along Light St.
9. Inner Harbour
Continue along Light St.
Turn left on Montgomery St.
Climb the stairs to the park on the hill.
10. Federal Hill Park (300 Warren Ave.)
From here, you can take the free circulator bus (at corner of Light St. and Key Hwy) back to the starting point. There are also many options to continue your day in Baltimore from Fells Point to museums, historical sights, and more (see above).