A stroll down ‘Black Broadway’ (Washington, DC)
There’s a lot to see in “official” Washington DC – the museums, the monuments, the memorials. But once you’ve toured these sites, and perhaps walked around Georgetown, you may want to see another side of the city fewer tourists make it out to. This stretch of U Street was - from the 1920s to the 1960s - the heart of black culture in Washington, D.C., sometimes called “Black Broadway.”. Following the death of Martin Luther King, Jr. in 1968, the corner of 14th and U was the epicentre of violent riots. Unfortunately, this area fell into decline in the 1970s, and was known as a hub for drug trafficking. The DC government began redevelopment efforts in 1980s, continuing into the 2010s. However, this also raised concerns about gentrification as large luxury buildings soon popped up. Today, U Street is one of the city’s main destinations for music and nightlife, while continuing to celebrate African American heritage through its music venues, public art, an annual funk parade, and of course through its cuisine.
Washington DC is the traditional territory of Nacotchtank, Anacostan and Piscataway people.
Tour Map
Tour Start
Begin your tour at the 10th St. exit of the U Street Station on the Green and Yellow lines of the Washington Metro. Right outside of the station, you’ll find the African American Civil War Memorial which honours the service of African-American soldiers, whose names are inscribed as part of the memorial, as well as a statue entitled The Spirit of Freedom. There is also a museum across the street (1925 Vermont Ave. NW).
Continue west (past 10th St.) on U St.
Oohh’s & Aahh’s
1005 U St. NW
Noon to 10pm (until 1am on Fri-Sat)
Operating since 2003, Oohh’s & Aahh’s seeks to preserve culture through soul food. Some menu options include fried chicken, shrimps and grits, with mac and cheese or collard greens on the side.
Continue another block west on U St.
Dukem Ethopian
1114-1118 U St. NW
5pm to 11pm
D.C. is home to the largest Ethiopian community outside of Africa. This means there are many great Ethiopian spots to choose from, especially in this area and in neighbouring Shaw. While there are many delciious food options, I recommend something small like a sambusa - a pastry filled with meat or veggies, so you won’t fill up too past (but make sure to get a full Ethiopian meal while you’re in D.C.!)
Continue another block west on U St.
Ben’s Chili Bowl
1213 U St. NW
11am to 9pm (until 1am on Fri-Sat)
Operating since 1958, Ben’s Chili Bowl has been a community hub on U Street for more than 60 years, surviving the 1968 race riots, the difficult reality of the area in the 70s and 80s and the U Street revitalization in recent decades. Its speciality is the half-smoke – first made famous by Ben’s in 1958 and is primarily only found in the D.C. area. A half smoke is half-pork, half-beef sausage, smoked, and served with herbs, onion, and chili sauce.
Barack Obama visited Ben’s Chili Bowl a few days before his inauguration and features prominently on the mural outside the building, alongside other famous Black Americans.
The legendary Ben’s (May 2007)
Continue west (0.5 miles) on U St.
Henry’s Soul Café
1704 U St. NW
11am-8:30pm (Tues-Sat), 11am-4pm (Sun), Closed Monday
Henry’s is famous for its southern cooking including catfish, chicken wings, meatloaf, as well as it’s speciality: Sweet Potato Pie (slices available).
Return to the corner of 14th and U St. From here, you can continue north or south along 14th St to finish the tour or grab the metro from the U Street station at the corner of 13th and U St.
Post-Tour Options
a) Heading north on 14th St.
Busboys and Poets
2021 14th St. NW
9 am to 10pm (until 11pm on Fri-Sat)
Busboys and Poets refers to American poet Langston Hughes (a hotel busboy who later became a famous poet). This location of the restaurant - which also acts as a bookstore and event space – is a hub for progressive activism.
Meridian Hill/Malcolm X Park
16th St. and W St. NW
If you’ve had enough food, walk over to this 12-acre park designated a National Historic Landmark. The park was historically used for concerts, gatherings, and political rallies. Its central feature is a cascading waterfall, and also features various statues and memorials including one of Joan of Arc. During the warmer months, a Sunday drum circle (from 3-9pm) features professional drummers and dancers. It has taken place in the upper park since the 1950s.
b) Heading south on 14th St.
While known as a red-light district in the 1980s, this section of 14th St. just south of U St. is now one of the top places in the city for restaurants, theatre, and art galleries. Here are just a few suggestions of places to end your tour within a few minutes walk of 14th and U St.
Colada Shop (Cuban café)
1405 T St. NW (corner of 14th St.)
8:30am to 9pm (until 10pm on Thurs-Fri)
Ice Cream Jubilee
1407 T St. NW (corner of 14th St.)
2-10pm (Mon-Thurs), Noon-10pm (Fri-Sun)
Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams
1924 14th St. NW
11am to 11pm (Mon-Wed), 11am to midnight (Thurs-Sun)
Ted’s Bulletin (modern American food and drink)
1818 14th St. NW
7am to 10pm (until 11pm on Fri-Sat)
Barcelona Wine Bar
1622 14th St. NW
4pm to midnight (Mon-Wed), 2pm to midnight (Thurs-Fri), 11am to midnight (Sat-Sun)
Route Information
Tour Map
Begin your tour at the 10th St. exit of the U Street Station. Continue west (past 10th St.) on U St.
Oohh’s & Aahh’s (1005 U St.)
Continue another block west on U St.
Dukem Ethiopian (1114-1118 U St.)
Continue another block west on U St.
Ben’s Chili Bowl (1213 U St.)
Continue west (0.5 miles) on U St.
Henry’s Soul Cafe (1704 U St.)
Return to the corner of 14th and U St.
From here, you can continue north or south along 14th St to explore the area (see list of post-tour options above) or grab the metro from the U Street station at the corner of 13th and U St.